After unveiling a new line of sandals at Milan Fashion Week, Italian luxury fashion label Prada is facing significant backlash that meets India with traditional Kolhapuri sandals. The open -legged pattern of shoes provoked allegations of cultural appropriation, as the design closely reflected the handicrafts Kolhapuri sandals made in Maharashtra and Karnataka in the Indian states. In response to criticism, Prada has now accepted the Indian origin of his footwear line and emphasized his commitment to craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions.
The controversy began when Prada demonstrated his new leather sandals at Milan Fashion Week last week. While the luxury brand referred to him only as “leather shoes”, it failed to mention his inspiration from Kolhapuri sandals in India, which has a deep cultural significance. Kolhapuri sandals named after the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra are known for their stability, comfort and handmade quality, making them a head in India’s warm and dry climate. Sandals have been designed by skilled artisans for centuries, their roots dating back in the 12th century.
Once the sandals were unveiled, many people in India quickly recognized the similarity of Kolhapuri sandals, which led to a growing outrage over the lack of acceptance of traditional artisans who have preserved the legacy of the design. A global fashion veteran Prada was accused of giving him the cultural and intellectual property of Indian artisans without credit. Kolhapuri sandals were given the status of Geographical Indication (GI) by the Government of India in 2019, a recognition that identifies products arising from a specific area, and serves as a mark of authenticity. This makes the dispute around the design of Prada particularly sensitive, as the GI tag provides legal protection to traditional products and ensures that their unique cultural significance is preserved.
In view of the backlash, Prada issued a statement to the BBC that accepted his new footwear line and India’s traditional Kolhapuri sandals. A spokesman for Prada said that the company has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions” and emphasized that the brand was in touch with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture to discuss the issue. The spokesperson also said that Prada was open to detect meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans and ensure that the contribution of these artisans was recognized. The company has expressed a desire to work with Indian communities in the future, and further discussions are expected regarding the issue.
The controversy attracted more attention when it was discovered that the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture head wrote a letter to Prada, urging the brand to accept artisans behind Kolhapuri sandals. The letter stated that the design was commercialized without recognizing the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. Lorenzo Burteli, the head head of the corporate social response, said that according to Reuters, sandals were still “in the early stage of the design”. Burteli also mentioned that the company was open to interact with local artisans and plans to arrange meetings to address the concerns raised by the chamber.
Kolhapuri sandals have great importance in India not only for their practicality, but for its historical and cultural importance. In Kolhapur, these sandals have been passed through generations, handicrafts by skilled leather workers. The artistry and craftsmanship involved in creating each pair of Kolhapuri sandals is reverence in the field, spending hours using traditional methods with artisans while carefully crafting sandals from high quality leather. Sandals are known for their strong construction and are designed to face the harsh weather conditions of India’s warm climate.
Despite the cultural glory associated with Kolhapuri sandals, the dispute around Prada design has brought the issue of appropriate compensation to the artisans. While Kolhapuri sandals are sold for a few hundred rupees in India, with the premium pricing of Prada, Sandals have allegedly raised concerns among the locals, with the local people who feel that they are not being compensated much for their labor. Local artisans, who often struggle to do a living laborer, are disappointed to see their work commercializing their work by global luxury brands without recognizing or obtaining financial benefits.
Kolhapuri artisan Prabha Satpute expressed disappointment saying, “These sandals are made with hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Do not take advantage of the labor of others.” Their feelings reflect the disappointment of many artisans, realizing that the design of Kolhapuri sandals and their contribution to cultural heritage is being exploited by powerful global companies.
Industrialist Harsh Goenka also voiced his concerns about inequality between low wages earned by local artisans and heavy profits by global brands. “They lose, while global brands cash on our culture,” said Goenka. Their comments highlight the widespread issue of cultural exploitation in the fashion industry, where traditional designs are often appointed by large companies without adequate compensation or recognition to communities that have created them.
While many have expressed disappointment over the commercial use of Kolhapuri sandals, some in Kolhapur have found a silver lining in the controversy. “The artisans are happy that someone is recognizing his work,” said Kolhapur -based businessman Dilip Mor. For some, the global meditation around the Kolhapuri sandals has brought a sense of pride, as it highlights the skills and craftsmanship of the artisans behind the iconic design.
This dispute is not the first time a global fashion brand has been accused of implementing Indian cultural products without accepting. In May 2025, Gucci faced a backlash to mention the saree worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, and earlier in the same month, a ticket tendency was criticized, which was a traditional South Asian scarf as a traditional South Asian scarf as a traditional South Asian scarf. These examples have made extensive conversations about cultural appropriation and more respect and recognition of traditional crafts and designs in the fashion industry.
The event associated with Prada serves as the need for brands to accept and respect the origin of those designs, which they take inspiration. While Prada has taken steps to address the dispute by joining with local artisans and accepting Indian roots of their design, it remains to be seen what action will be taken to improve the situation and ensure fair recognition and compensation for Kolhapuri sandals.
As the fashion industry is developing, it is important for brands to contact traditional designs with respect and recognize the value of craftsmanship that goes to create these cultural treasures. Moving forward, it is necessary that companies like Prada work together with local artisans to ensure that their work is given importance and they are given proper compensation for their contribution to the global fashion scenario. Through dialogue, cooperation and mutual respect, the industry can move towards a more equitable and culturally sensitive future.